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You must disable the garage door lock mechanism so that it cannot be inadvertently engaged. Accidental locking may cause severe damage to the door or the opener if the opener is activated!
Since you (or the next owner) might want to lock the door, don't do anything permanent. A bolt through the latch bar so it cannot engage in the track is fine. You may have to drill a hole through the latch to accomplish this. You may also use a small padlock instead of a bolt.
Since local building codes are so finicky, I wouldn't doubt that some areas might even require a "permanent" disabling of the locking mechanism. If you are concerned, check with your local building inspector.
I want to uninstall and dispose of a 16-ft. wide by 8-ft. high paneled steel overhead garage door and opener. I want to replace it with atrium doors and make the garage into a family room. The attached garage is well insulated and finished inside, and just cries to become our family room!
What is the best way to go about taking the garage door down? I've called
garage door installers, and none of them any advice, except that I advertise
giving it away for free in exchange for taking it down. The pros would probably
take it down for a price, but I'd rather spend the bucks on materials for my
First, enlist the aid of a strong friend! Offer food... whatever it takes!!
Then, disconnect and remove the garage door opener. Detach the opener body from the ceiling brackets first, and let it pivot down to the floor. Disconnect the garage door track from the bracket located above the door.
Raise the door manually. Push the door up as far as it will go... right to the stops! Put C-clamps on both tracks to hold in position. Disconnect all springs and cables. And be careful... even with the door up there may be some minimal tension in the springs.
Starting with the topmost panel, remove all hinges between the doors so that the door panels swing downward from the rollers and hang on the track. Do all panels this way.
Remove the clamps that you put on the tracks. Slide the panels one at a time to the ground. Disconnect the roller brackets to free up the panels from the track.
Good luck, and be careful!
There is an accessory available from Sears, called a low clearance bracket kit. It can be used on any sectional garage door that has clearance problems due to low ceilings or obstructions, allowing the garage door opener track to be mounted much closer to the top of the garage door than is usually possible.
The top guides (which hold the uppermost garage door rollers) on your door are replaced with specially designed brackets that cause the top of the top panel of the door to move inward further as the door opens than standard top guides. The result is that the top of the panel does not rise as high as the door opens, giving the additional ceiling clearance.
I tried to search the FCC database myself. I can tell you the proper frequency for a freighter sending a distress call in the Mediterranean Sea, but garage door openers... forget it!
However, a knight on a white horse has come to the rescue. After sending out a distress call, I received this response from Karl Seidel of Aleator Garage Door Transmitters (now defunct, unfortunately). Aleator was an online supplier of replacement garage door remote controls:
"The range of different types of frequencies depends on a variety of factors: geographic location, manufacturer preference, etc. We stock and sell radio sets with the following frequencies (in MHz): 288, 300, 310, 312, 318, 340, 390, 434, and more; we commonly get inquiries from Canada & other countries that use other frequencies."
Unplug the opener, open the unit up and look inside. I am not familiar with your specific opener model, but from your description, I wager that this opener uses drive belts instead of gears or chains. This would explain whyit continues to run rather than stopping or auto-reversing. The belts are slipping.
Remove the belt(s), take them to a hardware store and get replacements. Clean all the pulleys with lacquer thinner or alcohol to remove any grease or oils before replacing them.
The fact that you are having problems at the limits makes me wonder if you may have some restriction in the door itself. Troubleshoot the door for resistance, check pulleys, etc. There are some good tips in the garage door article at the web site.