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NEWS FLASH!! Goop
And Sealant Replaces Dog
As Handyman's Best Friend!!
Naming something GOOP is risky at best... because there are lots of goops
out there... for example there's GOOP,
the hand cleaning, shoe cleaning, clothes cleaning product. And, of course, these's
always "generic" goop... what the heck is that goop on the
wall? Or in the back of the refrigerator? Or in your kid's closet?
There is even GOOP FOR KIDS that can be made from ordinary
household chemicals... sort of a gooshy clay with an attitude! Click HERE
for the recipe!
OKAY, NH... stop ranting and get to the point!
Well, the GOOP that we "handyfolk" find so attractive is the adhesive product
made by Eclectic Products, Inc. It is marketed with names such
as Plumber's GOOP®, Automotive GOOP®, Carpenter's GOOP®, Sportsman's GOOP®, etc.
Eclectic even has a product to repair shoes called Shoe Goo®, which is a favorite
of joggers trying to get a few more miles out of the worn soles on their running
I have used a few of these "different" products and my vote is
that they all seem to be about the same, except for the colors. Though my experience
has been corroborated by every handyperson and hardware store magnate that has
ever opened a tube of this great stuff, there are some subtle differences
brought to my attention by MR of Hampton, VA. He wrote to Eclectic
Products and received this response:
Amazing GOOP® and Craft GOOP® contain a thinner
formula for precise, detailed work.
Wood & Furniture GOOP® is a thicker, non-slump formula perfect
for vertical and overhead applications.
Automotive GOOP®, Household GOOP® and Plumbing GOOP®
are all the same formula.
Lawn & Garden GOOP®, Marine GOOP®, RV GOOP® and
Sport and Outdoor GOOP® are all UV-resistant.
Shoe GOO® is a more rubbery formula allowing for greater
The most amazing thing about GOOP is that
it works under the most adverse conditions, it sticks to virtually everything
and remains flexible!
I used GOOP to repair a broken dishwasher utensil holder that had split on
the bottom. It has been 3+ years, and the GOOP is still holding (though it has
discolored from the original clear to an unappetizing yellowish tone)!
Thank the dishwasher's heat for that!
It will not stick to very dirty, wet or greasy surfaces. But then, what
could, except for a fly's feet?
Because of its tooling characteristics, which are poor, GOOP cannot be
used in place of latex or silicone caulks where appearance is critical.
NH's Favorite uses for GOOP...
- Loose laminate edging on wood shelving, cabinets, and kitchen
If you have a substantial area of loose laminate on your kitchen
countertop surface, you have a problem more major than GOOP can handle.
However, if you have plastic laminate or wood edge banding that has
released, GOOP is a great substitute for contact cement or wood glues. It
adheres to the old glue without complaint and is more forgiving... if you
slightly misalign the laminate, you have a few minutes to make
corrections. If you have worked with contact cement, you know that once
contact is made it's a done deal!
Apply the GOOP to either surface. Do not over apply or put it too close
to the edges; this minimizes squeeze out. Press the laminate into place
firmly. Then pull it back off for a few seconds to allow the GOOP
solvent to partially evaporate. This increases GOOP's
tackiness. Press back together and apply masking tape or low-tack
painter's tape at 6 inch intervals to hold laminate in place as the GOOP
dries. GOOP dries through solvent evaporation, so drying is slow between
two nonporous surfaces. Full strength may not be achieved for days.
However, enough holding strength is reached in 24 hours for careful
- Leaks in cracked faux marble sinks
If you have a cracked "faux marble" sink that is leaking
either around the drain hole or through stress cracks, I have gotten much
better results with GOOP than with silicone or latex caulk. Be sure the
area to be sealed is dry and clean. To be sure, give the area to be
sealed a wipe with alcohol to remove any residual soap scum or other
nastiness. Apply the GOOP to the underside of the sink, not the
Apply GOOP generously all around the leaky area, working it into the
cracks but keeping it built up at least 1/8" thick, extending the
GOOP 1/2" on either side of the crack. Overnight drying is required
before use. You can accelerate the drying with a hair dryer or heat gun,
but do not overheat the GOOP or your repair may fail!
- Leaks in plumbing drains...
I would not recommend the use of any adhesive for high pressure leaks
in water supply lines. But, if you have a leak around a drain fitting
under a sink, and just don't feel like doing the correct repair right now,
you can do a temporary repair with GOOP. Clean the area well, wipe with
alcohol, and apply the GOOP generously to the joint or crack.
- Repairs on wooden items, such as doors, drawers, furniture, and
White and yellow wood glues are almost worthless for repairing failed
fittings in wood pieces that have already been glued once. The original
gluing sealed the wood and, since wood glues depend on the porosity of the
wood to assist in holding, the second attempt is an exercise in futility.
It may hold for a short period of time but with very low strength. And the
prep necessary to get a good second gluing is tedious at best and may
require complete disassembly of the piece. Bring in the
I don't recommend GOOP for fine cabinet work. It is not
sandable... too rubbery... and does not absorb wood stain or paint so any squeeze out
will be a cosmetic problem you'll need plastic surgery to
correct! Also, like hot melt glues, GOOP is stronger in thicker
applications so I would not use it instead of wood glues in new,
I have found GOOP's greatest value is in concealed wood repairs such as
behind separated cabinet face frames (especially where nailing is awkward
or impossible), under or behind drawers to reinforce weak joints and for
split or broken doors where the repair will not be seen. These
include the "classic" stress splits that occur on the top and
bottom pivot-side of bifolding doors. GOOP is also a top choice for
reglueing the laminate separation that plagues flush (smooth-faced) and/or
moulded doors... phoney-baloney six panel doors that are really formed
from gluing preshaped hardboard panels to a wooden frame. See the article
on door repair and adjustment
for more details.
Chair spindle repair...
You can do a quality chair spindle
repair with GOOP that will outlast any wood glue repair. Put GOOP in the
spindle hole and on the spindle. Press together and clamp to squeeze out
excess GOOP. You should have some squeeze out... if not, then reopen joint
and apply a little more GOOP. Wipe excess with a clean cloth or paper
towel immediately, taking care not to smear the GOOP on adjacent wood. Let
dry clamped for at least 24 hours.
Sloppy furniture joints... GOOP is also a standout in the
repair of loose joints where strength is a priority and appearance less
so. You know... the sloppy-fitting joints in old "workhorse"
chairs like the beat up old beast you got from Uncle Harry that you just
can't send to the glue factory! Wood glues require a decently tight fit,
two-part epoxies are too brittle to stand the flexing stresses of a chair
and caulks just aren't strong enough. GOOP fills the voids in this
glue vacuum, packing the joint with firm adhesive strength.
According to Abby from GOOP Central (1-800-693-GOOP or
1-800-767-GOOP), there are three recommended solvents for GOOP. They are
acetone, toluene and naphtha. Acetone will do a good job on GOOP that has
not fully set. Toluene is a more powerful solvent that will remove fully set
GOOP. Naphtha, a solvent used in dry cleaning and a primary component of Zippo®,
and other lighter fluids (used in wick-type cigarette lighters), is recommended for removing GOOP
It is important to follow all precautions on the solvent's label. Test
a little of the solvent on the surface first... no sense getting surprised by
some sort of bizarre chemical reaction, such as your cellular phone melting into
OOPS... Goop can dry in the tube unless you always do my little trick!
Yep, one of the downsides of Goop is that it can dry in the tube. Most commonly, it can dry at the spout and make it impossible to get any more out. I don't think I've ever completely used a tube.
So what do I do to get the most Goop out of my tubes? The secret is to always squeeze all the air out of the tube before you put the cap on. The Goop should hit the inside of the cap with no air left inside. Do this, and you will most likely get to use most of the Goop you've purchased.
FOR MORE INFORMATION...
Visit the Eclectic Products website for more info on GOOP... click HERE!!
Glue Question List
Written by Jerry Alonzy
Jerry Alonzy, a.k.a. the Natural Handyman, has been an active handyman for over 30 years with experience in most areas of home repair and renovation.
As a do-it-yourself author and web developer since 1995, he has been featured in USA Today, the Today Show and on radio shows, magazines, newspapers and websites. His material appears widely on the web, but primarily on his website... The Natural Handyman. You can also find him on Google+.