NEWS FLASH!! Goop
Naming something GOOP is risky at best... because there are lots of goops out there... for example there's GOOP, the hand cleaning, shoe cleaning, clothes cleaning product. And, of course, these's always "generic" goop... what the heck is that goop on the wall? Or in the back of the refrigerator? Or in your kid's closet?
There is even GOOP FOR KIDS that can be made from ordinary household chemicals... sort of a gooshy clay with an attitude! Click HERE for the recipe!
Well, the GOOP that we "handyfolk" find so attractive is the adhesive product made by Eclectic Products, Inc. It is marketed with names such as Plumber's GOOP®, Automotive GOOP®, Carpenter's GOOP®, Sportsman's GOOP®, etc. Eclectic even has a product to repair shoes called Shoe Goo®, which is a favorite of joggers trying to get a few more miles out of the worn soles on their running shoes.
I have used a few of these "different" products and my vote is that they all seem to be about the same, except for the colors. Though my experience has been corroborated by every handyperson and hardware store magnate that has ever opened a tube of this great stuff, there are some subtle differences brought to my attention by MR of Hampton, VA. He wrote to Eclectic Products and received this response:
Amazing GOOP® and Craft GOOP® contain a thinner
formula for precise, detailed work.
Wood & Furniture GOOP® is a thicker, non-slump formula perfect for vertical and overhead applications.
Automotive GOOP®, Household GOOP® and Plumbing GOOP® are all the same formula.
Lawn & Garden GOOP®, Marine GOOP®, RV GOOP® and Sport and Outdoor GOOP® are all UV-resistant.
Shoe GOO® is a more rubbery formula allowing for greater flexibility.
I used GOOP to repair a broken dishwasher utensil holder that had split on the bottom. It has been 3+ years, and the GOOP is still holding (though it has discolored from the original clear to an unappetizing yellowish tone)! Thank the dishwasher's heat for that!
It will not stick to very dirty, wet or greasy surfaces. But then, what could, except for a fly's feet?
Because of it's tooling characteristics, which are poor, GOOP cannot be used in place of latex or silicone caulks where appearance is critical.
If you have a substantial area of loose laminate on your kitchen countertop surface, you have a problem more major than GOOP can handle. However, if you have plastic laminate or wood edge banding that has released, GOOP is a great substitute for contact cement or wood glues. It adheres to the old glue without complaint and is more forgiving... if you slightly misalign the laminate, you have a few minutes to make corrections. If you have worked with contact cement, you know that once contact is made it's a done deal!
Apply the GOOP to either surface. Do not over apply or put it too close to the edges; this minimizes squeeze out. Press the laminate into place firmly. Then pull it back off for a few seconds to allow the GOOP solvent to partially evaporate. This increases GOOP's tackiness. Press back together and apply masking tape or low-tack painter's tape at 6 inch intervals to hold laminate in place as the GOOP dries. GOOP dries through solvent evaporation, so drying is slow between two nonporous surfaces. Full strength may not be achieved for days. However, enough holding strength is reached in 24 hours for careful tape removal.
If you have a cracked "faux marble" sink that is leaking either around the drain hole or through stress cracks, I have gotten much better results with GOOP than with silicone or latex caulk. Be sure the area to be sealed is dry and clean. To be sure, give the area to be sealed a wipe with alcohol to remove any residual soap scum or other nastiness. Apply the GOOP to the underside of the sink, not the "service side".
Apply GOOP generously all around the leaky area, working it into the cracks but keeping it built up at least 1/8" thick, extending the GOOP 1/2" on either side of the crack. Overnight drying is required before use. You can accelerate the drying with a hair dryer or heat gun, but do not overheat the GOOP or your repair may fail!
I would not recommend the use of any adhesive for high pressure leaks in water supply lines. But, if you have a leak around a drain fitting under a sink, and just don't feel like doing the correct repair right now, you can do a temporary repair with GOOP. Clean the area well, wipe with alcohol, and apply the GOOP generously to the joint or crack.
White and yellow wood glues are almost worthless for repairing failed fittings in wood pieces that have already been glued once. The original gluing sealed the wood and, since wood glues depend on the porosity of the wood to assist in holding, the second attempt is an exercise in futility. It may hold for a short period of time but with very low strength. And the prep necessary to get a good second gluing is tedious at best and may require complete disassembly of the piece. Bring in the wrecking ball!
I don't recommend GOOP for fine cabinet work. It is not sandable... too rubbery... and does not absorb wood stain or paint so any squeeze out will be a cosmetic problem you'll need plastic surgery to correct! Also, like hot melt glues, GOOP is stronger in thicker applications so I would not use it instead of wood glues in new, tight-fitting joints.
I have found GOOP's greatest value is in concealed wood repairs such as behind separated cabinet face frames (especially where nailing is awkward or impossible), under or behind drawers to reinforce weak joints and for split or broken doors where the repair will not be seen. These include the "classic" stress splits that occur on the top and bottom pivot-side of bifolding doors. GOOP is also a top choice for reglueing the laminate separation that plagues flush (smooth-faced) and/or moulded doors... phoney-baloney six panel doors that are really formed from gluing preshaped hardboard panels to a wooden frame. See the article on door repair and adjustment for more details.
Chair spindle repair... You can do a quality chair spindle repair with GOOP that will outlast any wood glue repair. Put GOOP in the spindle hole and on the spindle. Press together and clamp to squeeze out excess GOOP. You should have some squeeze out... if not, then reopen joint and apply a little more GOOP. Wipe excess with a clean cloth or paper towel immediately, taking care not to smear the GOOP on adjacent wood. Let dry clamped for at least 24 hours.
Sloppy furniture joints... GOOP is also a standout in the repair of loose joints where strength is a priority and appearance less so. You know... the sloppy-fitting joints in old "workhorse" chairs like the beat up old beast you got from Uncle Harry that you just can't send to the glue factory! Wood glues require a decently tight fit, two-part epoxies are too brittle to stand the flexing stresses of a chair and caulks just aren't strong enough. GOOP fills the voids in this glue vacuum, packing the joint with firm adhesive strength.
According to Abby from GOOP Central (1-800-693-GOOP or 1-800-767-GOOP), there are three recommended solvents for GOOP. They are acetone, toluene and naphtha. Acetone will do a good job on GOOP that has not fully set. Toluene is a more powerful solvent that will remove fully set GOOP. Naphtha, a solvent used in dry cleaning and a primary component of Zippo®, Ronson® and other lighter fluids (used in wick-type cigarette lighters), is recommended for removing GOOP on clothing.
It is important to follow all precautions on the solvent's label. Test a little of the solvent on the surface first... no sense getting surprised by some sort of bizarre chemical reaction, such as your cellular phone melting into the carpet!
Visit the Eclectic Products website for more info on GOOP... click HERE!!