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DON'T LET BASEMENT MOISTURE DAMPEN YOUR SPIRITS!!
Hey, don't sweat it! Let the Natural
Handyman wrap up your condensation problems!
This
is a typical question I have received a hundred times about damp basements...
Is there a way to stop the
sweating on the pipes in my basement? There is so much condensation that
water actually puddles on the floor!
You are not alone!
With the exception of a handful of very modern homes, every home has a
basement moisture problem. Pipe sweating is just one symptom of excessive
dampness.
Even basements that have never had a visible water leak share the misery...
water vapor in the ground virtually forces large amounts of water vapor through
the floor and foundation walls. This water vapor is eager to become water again,
and any inviting cold surface will do the dirty job! Cold water pipes and well
pressure tanks are both prime targets.
And to give credit where credit is due, home builders do try to thwart
moisture (even if they are dragged kicking and screaming by the local building
inspector)! Most modern basement floors have plastic vapor barriers installed
under them, and the exterior concrete walls are coated with various sealers to
waterproof them. Unfortunately, most of us don't live in new homes, so our
moisture problems can at times be severe.
There is no single solution to this problem, but a "shotgun"
approach can give the best results. The following is a list of actions you can
take to lower basement moisture levels. They are in no particular order of
importance, but it goes without saying that they work best together. And don't
get discouraged... any of these tips that you follow will
measurably improve your moisture situation!
This discussion assumes that you have a concrete floor. If your basement has
a dirt floor, there are other steps you must take to lower the moisture level.
Click HERE to read about
moisture in crawlspaces... specifically the info on vapor barriers on dirt
floors.
- Eliminate all active leaks...
This is obvious and essential if you want to gain control over the
moisture. Some waterproofing compounds (more below) will eliminate minor
leaks, but in my opinion you should repair all known leaks with either
hydraulic cement or concrete patching compound before applying any
waterproofing compound to the walls. Hydraulic cement is designed to repair
actively leaking areas, while the patching compound can be used for damp
areas without flowing water.
There will be a waiting period necessary between the leak repair and
application of the waterproofing compound. Read the instructions on the
waterproofer you choose for specific information.
If your home has severe and persistent water leaks that defy simple
patching, more extreme measures involving either interior or exterior drains
may be necessary. This can be a complicated and expensive procedure, and a
few professional waterproofing contractors should be consulted. There are
many different ways to approach serious water problems, and few contractors
do them all, so a few "eyeballs" can help you to learn what types
of expertise your local contractors can provide.
- Check the exterior of the house for moisture
problems near the foundation...
Blocked, damaged, or missing gutters are a common source of foundation
moisture. Clean them regularly, be sure the leaders drain the water away
from the house, and, if necessary, install new gutters. Though it is
admittedly unpleasant, sometimes gutter problems can only be detected while
standing outside in a torrential downpour! Just be sure to wear your hip
boots!
There are some gutter-like products on the market. Some folks just don't
like the look of gutters. But without gutters your foundation can become
waterlogged. These "faux" gutters are designed to eliminate the
"drip line" along the side of the foundation caused when water
falls off the roof in gutterless homes. The water is somewhat dispersed and
lands further from the foundation. Even though these products do what they
are intended to do, they may still drop the water too close to the
foundation in some situations, especially if your grade directs the water
back towards the house.
Vegetation near to the foundation is another potential problem. Not only
do the roots and soil hold moisture, but the shade the vegetation creates
does not allow the ground to dry out. Insects view these damp areas as a
"Welcome" mat to your home as well!
Walk around the foundation and check the grade of the land. If there are
low spots near the foundation, take a walk in the rain during the next
downpour and see if there is any noticeable puddling anywhere near the
foundation. If you do feel a change in grade is needed, there are many ways
to accomplish this, as simple as adding and compacting soil near the
foundation, or as complicated as installing drains.
Remember... even if you do not have an active leak, any moisture near
the foundation increases the amount of water vapor that can get inside!
- Coat walls and floors with a waterproofing
compound...
Choose your product with care. There are various types of waterproofing
products on the market, so it is critical that you choose one that is a
waterproofer, not a sealer! A sealer protects the concrete from surface
moisture, but does not stop the movement of moisture through the concrete
from the outside as effectively as a true waterproofer. Also, be sure the
product you choose is designed to be used below grade, and will seal
walls under water pressure.
Proper preparation of the concrete is essential. If there is old paint or
other coatings on the wall, they should be removed either chemically or by
sandblasting if you want the best possible job. Not to say unequivocally
that the new coating won't stick... it just may not do as good a job sealing
the wall. Remember, there is no such thing as perfection... it is the
striving for perfection that defines us and our work!
- Wrap all cold water pipes and tanks...
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This is the easiest and most direct solution to prevent
condensation on cold surfaces... don't let the moist air reach them!
Do not use fiberglass pipe wrap... it is not waterproof, will absorb
water, and the extra step of wrapping the fiberglass with a plastic
vapor barrier is more than a pain.. it is downright frustrating! Use
plastic foam pipe wrap instead. It is available in various lengths
(depending on where you buy it), and is easily cut with scissors or a
utility knife. Miter (angle cut) all corners so they meet as closely
as possible, and then wrap all seams with duct tape. |
You might say... "Yeah, but there are fifty miles of pipe to wrap!
Do I have to wrap it all?" Answer... not really. The amount of
condensation is proportional to the amount of exposed pipe. The less pipe
you have exposed to the moisture, the less total condensation you will have.
Pipes that run above suspended ceilings, for example, will often not collect
condensation because the area is drier than the basement itself. In other
words, cover as much pipe as you can without sacrificing your sanity or the
economic security of your family!
Well pressure tanks are also the source of mucho condensation. The ideal
wrap for them is a plastic foam water heater blanket. However, if you cannot
find or order one from your local home, plumbing, or hardware store, using
fiberglass and then tightly wrapping it in a heavy plastic tarp (and duct
tape, of course) is an acceptable, albeit second choice alternative. One
thing about these tanks is that the condensation tends to limit itself to
the water level, so even a half wrap can be beneficial in a pinch.
- Use a dehumidifier...
Even if you do all the things mentioned above, you will not eliminate all
the moisture from the basement air. Human and animal traffic leaves moisture
behind. If you have a finished basement with potted plants and little
ventilation, more moisture is added to the air. Open the window and bingo...
in comes the outside humidity! So just about any basement can benefit from
the use of a dehumidifier.
Want more practical information about dehumidifiers? Check out the
article on this very subject... right in this book!
In conclusion, your task may be simple, or it may be involved. But let me
make one thing perfectly clear... with moisture clearly being Basement
Enemy Number One, whichever of these steps you take will add to
the life, comfort, and value of your home.
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