Bath Tub and Shower Refinishing
When you hate to put the bathroom light on, it may be time...
We were sent some good information of bathtub refinishing from a supplier of
refinishing products, On The Spot
Marketing at http://www.otsm.com. We thought it was worthwhile enough to
reprint here. It has been slightly edited.
Regarding a question from your reader about refinishing
her own bathtub...
Though I don't want to discourage do-it-yourselfers from
refinishing their own tubs or enclosures, my first instinct is to tell them that
it isn't as easy as getting a can of spray paint and repainting a small piece of
furniture. First, to do a
good job you need a HVLP paint spraying system. That means high volume,
low pressure. If you have never used this type of equipment before, you
could make a big mess. (Or experiment a bit and learn... the way
handymen of old learned how to use strange tools!)
Preparation is essential. If not done correctly, the
finish will most definitely begin peeling.
What about the "hardware store" bathtub
You can purchase the kits at your local hardware stores
but they are designed to be applied with a paint brush or roller. The
result, unfortunately, is that these kit jobs LOOK painted! You may have
problems with peeling. If you call a refinisher after that they will
charge more because they have to remove all the old stuff.
Choosing a professional refinisher...
When looking for a refinisher ask them the following:
- How long have you been in business?
- How long have you lived in the area?
- What type of guarantee to you give? How many years?
- What process do you use, chemical bond or
Most refinishers offer 5 year guarantee, some of the older systems
only offer 1 or 2 years. If they offer more than 5, I would be worried
because it is only good if that company is still around.
Acid etching is an old method that has a tendency to peel much sooner
than chemical bonding. It was developed to allow the refinishing
product to adhere to ceramic tile and porcelain tubs. A newer
option is chemical bonding using a primer that adheres
tenaciously, giving a great base for the finish. It will also work
on plastic/fiberglass enclosures.
Here are the general steps in refinishing a bathtub:
- Put the drop cloths on the flooring (to prevent damaging any
carpets or flooring in the home). Be sure to have a plastic garbage
- Hook up an exhaust fan of some type. This is to get rid of any
excess fumes from the chemicals.
- Hook up Positive Supply Air Respirator.
- Remove all caulking around the tub and the tile walls. Use a
flat head screwdriver or Exacto knife. (See article on
- For refinishing tiles, be sure to remove any loose grouting
between the tiles.
- Scrape down tub removing any paint, or other build up. Look for
chips and holes. Scrape the chips and try to make larger. (Scrape
with a safety scraper blade.)
Scrub the tub or tiles with DNX Cleaner. Be sure to wear rubber
gloves. (Use 3M Burgundy scotch brite pad). Be sure to clean around
drain and the outside of the tub. After scrubbing wipe off with damp
sponge. Keep sponge rinsed and clean.
- Using Refinishers Power Clean and the scouring pad, scrub the
tub or tiles. Wipe off with damp sponge.
- Sand the chip using water and 220 grit wet/dry sand paper.
Remove as much dirt and rust as possible. If the porcelain around
the chip seems loose, try to remove it with a blade. (Sometimes a
small chip may end up really being 3 times the size after
- Clean around the chips that need to be fixed. Put some Prep
Solvent on a paper towel and wipe. Now repeat cleaning with Silicone
- Fill in the holes, cracks, scratches and pinholes by using the
filler. Sand filler after it hardens. Start with using 220 wet/dry
sandpaper and then use 400 wet/dry. Make sure it is as smooth as
- Clean the tub and/or tile with a cloth for all dust, etc.
Using a vacuum can be handy.
- Using paper or plastic to mask around the room to protect the
areas that you don't want to be coated; such as floor, tiles, drain,
taps etc. Use a tape that does not pull off paint, wall paper or
that paint may leak through. Be sure to mask the drain and the floor
well. Make sure that the faucet is not dripping. You do not want any
water on the coating.
- Wipe down surface with Prep Solvent. This step may be done
before masking. It is recommended that when using Prep Solvent or
Silicone Wash that you wear an Organic Cartridge Respirator or a
Positive Air Supply Respirator.
- Wipe down surface with Silicone Wash.
- Apply a small amount of Refinishers Bond bonding agent over
the entire surface. Be extra careful that you don't miss a spot.
This is the key to a no peel finish.
- Now mix the Refinishers PX Gloss Coating as specified.
- We recommend using three coats of this coating. The first coat
should be a tack coat. It should just have speckles all over. This
coat will help prevent it from running. Wait about 5 to 15 minutes
between coats. The second coat should be heavier. The last coat,
known as the wet coat, should be put on as heavy as possible without
causing it to run. It is strongly recommended to be using a Positive
Air Respirator during this application.
- Clean gun and equipment with Prep Solvent, or Refinishers CZ/PX
Thinner. Wait until the tub is touch dry (about 15 to 30 minutes
depending on temperature), and then start removing the masking
around the tub.
- Silicone between bath tub and wall and where ever else is
You can contact Shawn at On The Spot Marketing for more information.
The address is: On The Spot Marketing 4103 - 65 Street - Stettler AB T0C 2L1
Phone: (403) 742-6735 Fax: (403) 742-6736
EMAIL: Spot@otsm.com WEBSITE: http://www.otsm.com