How To Use Drywall Tape For Joints Or For Wall Repairs
What is drywall tape?
Drywall tape is a rugged paper tape designed to cover seams in drywall.
The best tape is not "self-stick" but is held in place with
joint compound. It is designed to be very durable, resistant to
tearing and water damage, and has a slightly rough surface to provide maximum
adhesion to drywall compound.
There are self-adhesive tapes on the market, and they have some positive
aspects since they eliminate the need for a first bedding coat of compound. The
only drawback is that the drywall surface must be dust-free and totally dry or
they don't stick! Self-adhesive fiberglass tape, for example, is touted because it is waterproof.
However, because it is not smooth like paper tape, it is
especially tricky to hide with compound. In other words, if you don't apply a
thick enough layer of drywall compound over the top of it, the tape shows
your wall look like a painted waffle!
Another drawback with self-adhesive drywall tapes is the
moisture in the compound can make the tape's adhesive release. All in all, not
a product I'd recommend for any normal drywall installations or repairs.
How drywall tape is designed...
Drywall tape is designed with a manufactured seam or fold down the middle
This seam makes it easy to fold long lengths of tape for use on inside corners.
Because this seam is slightly raised, you should always install drywall tape
with the outside raised area of the seam against the wall.
How to install drywall tape...
Installing drywall tape is easy. Just don't be afraid of being sloppy,
at least while you're learning. Put newspaper or plastic tarps under your
work till you get the knack. After a while, you will drop very little
compound as you learn to work it.
- Apply a layer of drywall compound over the seam or area to be repaired.
The compound does not need to be applied evenly, but it must completely
cover the area behind the tape. Any dry spots may lead
to tape failure and more work later! (It is not important to
fill the gap between the panels behind the paper. Indeed, if the gap
is very large the weight of the compound filling the gap might cause the
tape to bulge out... a problem that is not easily repaired. If you
feel the gap should be filled, it is better to fill the gap first, allow the
compound to dry completely and THEN apply the tape over it.)
- Lay the tape into the compound, seam bulge toward the wall. Run
your taping knife along the tape, pressing it hard enough to cause most of
the compound to ooze out from under the tape.
There should only be a very small amount of compound left behind the tape.
NOTE: Some installers like to wet the
tape first by running it through a bucket of water. This can improve
the stick between the compound and the tape by slowing down the drying time.
When the tape absorbs the moisture from the compound, it can cause dry spots
that may lead to tape lifting. It's your choice... just thought I'd
- As you work, apply the excess compound over the top of the tape in a
thin layer OR clean it from the knife and use fresh compound to lightly
cover the tape. Of course, if you prefer you can let the compound dry
and put the next layer on later. Most experienced drywall people do
this layer at the same time. However, less experienced people sometimes
find that they tend to move or wrinkle the tape when applying this second
coat right away. So it's your choice!! The only difference is
the time it takes to complete the job.
- After the first coat is dry and before applying the next coat, remove any large lumps or bumps by drawing your taping knife along the
joint. Wipe the joint with a rag, if desired, to remove any loose
pieces and apply two or more additional coats (depending on your skill
level) over the tape, feathering the compound outward each time with a wide
taping knife. If you are neat, you should not have to sand till the
final coat is dry.
Taping Inside Corners
Taping inside corners is much the same as doing flat surfaces, except that it
isn't. (Don't you hate it when people say that!) Though the
installation process is the same, the trick here is to keep the tape centered in
the corner. God bless you if you get it right the first time. If you
don't, welcome to the club!!
- Apply drywall joint compound to both sides of the corner. You'll
find it easier to flatten the tape into the corner if you are careful NOT to
leave large lumps of compound... try to keep an even, thin layer over the
entire area the tape will cover (There is an alternate tool available...
seen note below)
- Cut the tape to the proper length. Fold the tape in half and press
it into the corner with your fingers. (Now you know why that seam is
- Carefully draw your taping knife down either side of the corner,
squeezing out excess compound while guiding the fold deeply into the corner.
When you're done, the corner should look straight and neat.
Start at the top again and draw the knife down the other side of the
corner. More compound will squeeze out. When you reach the
bottom, both sides should be completely set into the compound and the corner
still straight. You can go back and do minor adjustments, but don't
overwork the compound.
- You can put a thin coat over the entire corner now (as in standard flat
wall installation) or let the compound dry and apply this coat later.
any large lumps or bumps by drawing your taping knife along the corner...
carefully so you don't damage the tape! Wipe the joint with a rag, if
desired, to remove any loose pieces. You will need to apply two or
more additional coats, feathering each coat out a little further, until the
tape is evenly covered and the compound almost perfectly smooth. If
you are neat, you should not have to sand till the final coat is dry.
NOTE: There is a special drywall knife designed for use in corners called an inside angle trowel
(right). These are available both stationary
and adjustable styles. Online, the adjustable style is priced within $10 of the
stationary at most sites. I've done corners both ways and though the
corner tool has advantages, I have found that as an amateur it is neater to do
the two sides with a standard drywall knife and then use the corner trowel to
neaten up the corner.
Written by Jerry Alonzy
Jerry Alonzy, a.k.a. the Natural Handyman, has been an active handyman for over 30 years with experience in most areas of home repair and renovation.
As a do-it-yourself author and web developer since 1995, he has been featured in USA Today, the Today Show and on radio shows, magazines, newspapers and websites. His material appears widely on the web, but primarily on his website... The Natural Handyman. You can also find him on Google+.